![]() *B to E is just showing you battery voltage. Use this to confirm you are testing the correct pins* *EC should have a chart of EFI harness plug numbers, their function, and values. I omitted the one that is directly underneath the outlet tube, and I didn't reconnect the A/C bracket to one of the other two bolts. Just curious if anyone else has left bolts out when re-installing it. I will say that it is a PITA getting the AFM in and out, with all the bolts and brackets that Nissan used. The alternative would be to source a new one, but that would still require splicing into the existing harness. There's really almost no slack in that part of the harness, so a little extra wire will be helpful. This tells me I have a bad connector or damaged wire, so I'm going to try to de-pin it, solder on some longer wire and repin it. I limped home (I guess that's why they call it limp mode?) and with it idling, was able to wiggle the AFM wiring connector and get the engine to almost stall. About half way, it started surging again. I was quite pleased, and took it for a drive around the block. It ran like it should (instead of surging). after this, I neutralized with baking soda. It checked out good.Ĭonnector soaking in vinegar. While I had everything apart, I cleaned the connector and also tested the AFM per the FSM. I did the continuity checks as described above and everything checked out perfectly. I confirmed my suspicion that the diagnostic procedures are incorrect in the second and third illustrations. Here are the jumper pairs and pin numbers I think I need to test:Į-F = 35-12 (12 being on the 20-pin connector) I haven't had a chance to test this yet, because it's late and I just finished looking at these diagrams: seems like it should be jumpered between A, B and D for those pins. Based on the first diagram, I don't see how jumpering between C, E and F will result in continuity on 26-30, 26-31 or 30-31. My testing on the car confirms that with the ignition on, there is battery voltage between D and E: My testing confirms this, and at some time in the past I scribbled through the B and showed the test lead to E. Based on the one above, if the harness is disconnected from the AFM, I don't see how testing voltage between B and D will give a reading. I think all of these are correct because I traced them on the main wiring diagram (EF&EC-8,9) before I found this page: In the wiring diagram, I traced it to pins 36 and 28. It shows the ECU pin numbers for all wires on the AFM harness except C, which goes to the body ground. The one I downloaded from Zenon's website is identical to what's in my book.įor reference, here is the first diagram, on pg. The hard copy I own has some errata pages that were glued over the original pages in some places, so I'm hoping maybe these just didn't get corrected on my copy. Having a hard time believing that Nissan got these so wrong, so hoping somebody can explain what I'm missing or share a different FSM that these have been corrected. I would hate to have your air meter break during shipment.Hoping someone here can verify my understanding of '86 FSM wiring diagrams for the air flow meter. ![]() Getting the State (or any government) involved 'to help' is last on my list for anything.īianchi, PM me if you're still interested in shipping this far but I bet I can find one down here (I'll call the alfa club here in Santa Barbara). I have until May 16 to get this fixed and pass Smog. Unfortunately, it appears I am going to have to pay the piper and get another re-test done. I am getting closer and will mark the components once I get then dialed in. I had leaned the air valve out - apparently too much and also had adjustd the bypass screw. That led me to continued fiddling with it and as I had mentioned, 2 years ago, I had passed Hydrocarbons by 1 part per million. initially I had fiddled with it to try and cure a small miss (that turned out to be burned up exhaust valve due to me not adjusting them over time). I believe the air box got messed up by your truly. I believe the O2 sensor is good - I saw the bouncing (at idle) and it's fairly solid at full throttle (as I can tell) and will run the procedure for idle mixture you show on your page today. I'll re-check the coolant temp sensor for operation but I had replaced that less than 5 years ago. Greg, the o2 sensor is working good - I got some good runs with it yesterday. Bianchi - I live in Southern California - an hour north of LA.
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